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go with a tour agency and avoid the border area with Pakistan, where violence flares up from time to time. Skirmishes between Indian soldiers and civilians are not uncommon, but the government and locals are sensitive about tourist safety and visitors will be warned against entering any dangerous areas.Must-sees and dosThe history of political unrest and geographic isolation mean the valley sees fewer visitors and the natural environment remains pristine. Apart from Srinagar, the valley’s capital and transit hub, three main tourist destinations are promoted by the Indian government. These provide access to the valley’s legendary beauty and can be accessed on day trips from Srinagar over a five to seven-day visit.Gulmarg, land of snowTucked into the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas, the hill station at an altitude of nearly 3,000 metres is covered in snow for seven months of the year and was named as Asia’s seventh best ski destination by CNN International. A 90-minute ride from Srinagar, over winding uphill roads through pine and fir forest, leads you to this hub for winter sports that include skiing, snowboarding and sledging. Ride the gondola, one of the world’s highest cable cars, to land near the 4,200-metre summit and enjoy panoramic views of snow-clad peaks or to carve fresh lines on untracked snow. The town also has a few important landmarks like the Shiva temple and century-old St Mary’s church. Lodging at Gulmarg gives you a chance to wake up to views of an undisturbed snow- blanketed terrain. In summer, themountain slopes turn into areas for golf, trekking, mountain biking and horseback riding.Sonamarg: rivers, lakes, ponies, troutNicknamed “the Meadow of Gold”, Sonamarg is two hours from Srinagar and offers a variety of landscapes, from rock-girt canyons and grassy meadows dotted with sheep and goats to frozen lakes embraced by snowy mountains. Here you can enjoy sledge rides even in midsummer, or ride a pony to the Thajiwas Glacier three kilometres away. Pony-wallahs will approach you to take you there, but you have to negotiate the price. Pick a spot along the Sindh River to picnic under snow-laced mountains and cerulean sky. If you are feeling more adventurous, the Sindh River is ideal for white-water rafting. The river and the lakes such as VishansarElite+ 55