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an actual house. Bena, overflowing with tourists, is the village nearest Bajawa. Venture further afield on gravel roads for smaller, more authentic communities.A further eight hours from Bajawa, deep in the West Manggarai highlands, is Wae Rebo, a village of Manggarai people that offers the best Florinese tribal experience. Starting from Ruteng, the bumpy four-hour journey rattles through scenic rice fields, Savu Sea coastline or lush rainforest, ending at Denge village, the starting point for rainforest treks to Wae Rebo. The trek takes three hours and the first reward comes in the last 800 metres as you descend into the village and catch sight of the valley and seven tiny cone huts on a slope amid a 360-degree mountain view.The Wae Rebo villagers have managed to keep things as authenticas possible, although there are modern houses alongside traditional ones. The secluded location (without even a phone signal) discourages develop- ment, and the traditional houses are well kept. Their smart architecture reflects practicality, the dwellers’ life philosophy and beliefs. The conical anyaman-ilalang thatched roof with eaves near the ground keeps the inside cool in summer and warm in winter. Underneath is a single circular room with kitchen in the middle and thin mattresses where owners and guests sleep in a circle. The central supporting bamboo pole also serves as a stair to the cone’s narrower part, which is used to store crops.On arrival you are guided to the Drum House, where village elders live, to pay respects to their ancestors’ spirits and pay a small entrance fee. Lunching and accommodation isat another hut allocated for foreign visitors. You can walk around the randomly placed coffee plantations, trek another 2 kilometres to a waterfall and see a traditional performance, before bathing at a natural brook and drifting into a electricity-free night while counting the stars.Our final destination, Labuan Bajo (LB), is a place to frolic in fresh- and saltwater. Cunca Wulang Canyon, 30km from LB, is set in a tropical rainforest with cool clear emerald green water, perfect for refreshing dips. It’s a major spot for family outings and picnics.When done with the town, head offshore. On Komodo and Rinca islands are the endangered Komodo dragons endemic to the two islands. These carnivorous lizards can grow up to 3 metres long, are excellent swimmers and can run at speeds of up to 20km/h. They have venom thatWae Rebo village.56 Elite+