Silver Waves by Boon: The Pinnacle of Cantonese Dining Above the Chao Phraya
We swiftly rose to the 36th floor of the Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok where we were greeted at the entrance to the ‘Silver Waves by Boon’ Cantonese restaurant. The blend of traditional and contemporary, minimalist Guangdong styling was quite impressive. A very high ceiling, muted red patterned wallpaper, traditional Chinoiserie paintings along with modern abstract canvases, a patterned tile floor and windows that rose to the ceiling offering panoramic vistas of the Chao Phraya river flowing below as the city spread out to the horizons. The seating and table settings were a blend of traditional and contemporary Chinese design, with the same muted red or cream coloured upholstered black framed seats set around black marble tables, some covered with white tablecloths.
Silver Waves by Boon opened last year in May, but with the celebration of the Chinese New Year – The Year of the Golden Horse – Chef Ho Chee Boon and his team of Executive Chinese Chef, Chef Bend, Paradon AlL Bau, and Dim Sum Chef, Chef Mo, Alex Jianming, they were offering a new menu of seasonal, creative, signature delicacies that we were anxious and excited to try.
This was because Michelin-starred Chef Boon, was the former international executive chef for the Hakkasan world-class chain of Chinese restaurants and had led the openings of several of their restaurants, including those located in London, New York, Dubai and Abu Dhabi. And Chef Bend had served as his protégé for many years before rising to become the Silver Waves executive chef just two months ago while Chef Mo had been with the restaurant since its opening, working to create new Dim Sum specialties.
So, we made our selections from the Dim Sum Lunch Set which gave us a choice of four Dim Sum dishes from 14 assorted dishes, all freshly made with the finest local and imported ingedients, as well as a choice of soup, vegetable and rice or noodle dish. In addition, we selected a few signature dishes from the vast a la carte menu.
As we made our selections, we were given the choice of a very soothing, hot, or refreshingly cool, premium black tea, which they continued to refill my cup and my friends’ glasses throughout the meal. I found I would sip some tea to clear my palate between each of the selections as they were served to be able to appreciate their full flavours.
We began with the succulent, signature Lychee Lobster Ball, which came as a set of three jewel-red balls that looked more like the fruit than a Dim Sum delicacy, but after biting into the paper-thin crust, or skin, my mouth was filled with a moist, sweet mix of lobster and lychee flavour. It was fun to watch the delightful surprise on everyone’s face.
After this we were served Chef Boon’s signature Crispy Chicken and Chinese Celery Puff with a slight twist created by Chef Mo and Chef Bend. The batter was so light that as I picked it up with my chopsticks, it felt like it was almost floating. And as I bit into it, I was treated to the tenderest chicken juxtaposed with crispy celery and a blend of spices that left me savouring the flavour.
Next came another crispy Dim Sum, Roasted Duck with Black Pepper Pumpkin Puff. We were told to eat it as soon as it was served to be sure we would enjoy the sensation of biting into the crust before our palate was enticed by the black pepper and moist duck filling.
Each of these Dim Sum Dishes had been extraordinary in their own, unique way, crafted to highlight their distinctive, subtle flavours. As this is considered refined Cantonese dining, no sauces or dips were served to accompany the dishes so each person experiences the purity and balance in the blending of tastes.
And then came the Guangzhou signature Har Goa Prawn and Asparagus Dumpling, oh so light and tender that it virtually melted in my mouth while bursting with flavour. And while we didn’t want to eat quickly to savour the flavours, we had to eat somewhat fast as these were all best enjoyed while still hot and fresh from the kitchen.
We next had one more Dim Sum dish to tantalise our taste buds, tender Crab Dumplings with Bok Choy, or Chinese white cabbage from Guangdong, the flavour enhanced by XO sauce, a Hong Kong chunky, oily, umami-packed seafood jam made with a blend of high-end, finely chopped dried scallops and shrimp and Jinhua ham, garlic, shallots and chilis for a full and robust flavour, which was truly mouth-wateringly delicious.
Then, to slow down, we decided to try Chef Boon’s Imperial Seafood Fried Rice with Spinach. The rice is wok-tossed Thai jasmine fragrant rice blended with spinach juice which gives it its pastel green tone. Then, daintily diced seafood is added to complete this very delicious, delicately aromatic dish.
After a few minutes came two more of Silver Waves’ signature dishes. The first was the Braised Premium Fresh Abalone. Sauteed and then stewed for over four hours in a rich stock made of Jinhua ham, chicken feet, pork skin and dried seafood. The ever so tender abalone burst with an intense, rich, sweet, umami flavour with the tiniest of bites after which I gave it time to be savoured to the fullest extent.
The second dish was the Crispy Sea Cucumber with Shrimp in Homemade Barbecue Sauce. I’d never eaten sea cucumber and had no idea what it would taste like. My partner was afraid to try it at first because of its name in Thai, pling talay, which translates directly to be sea leech, and she hates leeches that have attached to her legs when we have gone walking in the forest. But after a little convincing, she decided to try it as well. And what a surprise! Once we bit into the crispy, deep-fried, premium Dalian sea cucumber, we delved into a texture like octopus or squid tentacles, but sweeter. Filled with finely minced shrimp paste and bathed in the house-made, tangy Cantonese barbecue sauce, the flavour and texture became even more distinct, a true testament to traditional Cantonese cooking enhanced through contemporary, inventive craftsmanship.
And that completed our afternoon, curated Cantonese Dim Sum luncheon, an experience to be savoured as we took the hotel’s ferry back to the Taksin Bridge Pier.
In addition to their set Dim Sum lunch, Silver Waves by Boon also serves a sumptuous Chef’s Tasting Menu in addition to its fine Cantonese dining a la carte menu. Lunch is served daily from 11.30 am to 3.00 pm while dinner hours are from 6.00 to 10.00 pm. In addition to the main dining room and Half-moon Bay riverfront area, there is the spacious Taechew private room that can comfortably seat up to 20 persons around a large circular table or over 40 for a reception for private receptions or meetings with its 100-inch monitor and audio equipment.
Fanpage: Silver Waves by Boon
